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Tad's cousin David was engaged to a girl from Nicaragua and they were getting married in Managua on December 29, 2001. Tad and I decided that David should have someone from his family present and decided to attend the wedding. Besides, it was a great excuse to visit the country. (Other links of interest may be found at the bottom of the last page.
Nicaragua, located between Honduras and Costa Rica, is the largest country in Central America, but it has a small population of mixed Spanish and Native American descent. Spanish is the official language and the population is overwhelmingly Roman Catholic. The Pacific side of the country was influenced by the Spanish conquistadors starting in the 1500s and Nicaragua received it's independence from Spain in 1821. The Caribbean side, which speaks English and other indigenous languages and includes the Mosquito Coast and the port of Bluefields, was a British protectorate until the late 1800s. Ethinic groups on the Caribbean side include native groups, such as the Miskitos and Ramas, and blacks which escapes from slave ships. There are several reggae clubs in Bluefields.
The area has numerous volcanoes including Masaya, Mombacho, Cerro Negro, Conception and Maderas on Isla de Ometepe, and San Cristobol. Over the years, there have been several destructive earthquakes (Managua, 1972), There was also damage from Hurricane Mitch.
Tropical Nicaragua has two distinct seasons which are determined by rainfall and not temperature. The average annual precipitation in Managua is about 35 inches. The temperature stays around 82 degrees F year round. Most days start out warm and sunny with clouds coming in the afternoon. During the dry season (December to April depending on region), the winds often blow clouds across the sky but there is little if any rain. During the wet season (May to November depending on region), there is rain.
Although Nicaragua is the poorest country in Central America, it also has the lowest crime rate although crime is increasing in Managua. Half the population lives on less than 365 dollars a year.
Yesterday, we drove from Tulare to Los Angeles and checked into a Howard Johnson for the night. We have made arrangements to leave our car in their parking lot while we are Nicaragua.
From the Howard Johnson, we caught their 7am shuttle to the LAX airport. First, we waited in line for about 45 minutes to check out bags with Continental and get our boarding passes. Then we spent about 15 minutes in the line at the bottom of the stairs before we could go up the stairs to get into the security line. We spent 10 to 15 minutes in the security line before walking through the metal detectors and having our carry-ons x-rayed. Neither of us set off any alarms. We then had a couple of hours to wait for our 11:25am Continental Flight 1974, but that was preferable to feeling stressed and rushed to make the flight (besides, we had heard horror stories of people arriving 3 hours ahead of time and still missing the flight).
The first part of the flight to Houston, TX was fine. We had to get of the plane in Houston for about 30 minutes. Since we getting back on the same plane, we didn't have to rush to another terminal and had time to stretch our legs and use the restroom. The temperature in Houston was about 52 degrees F and I set my watch ahead one hour. Most of the passengers did not go from LAX-Houston-Managua so it was a different group that boarded the plane in Houston. Again, the plane appeared to be full.
Managua is the largest city and the capital on Nicaragua. It was destroyed by the Spanish in the 1500s and remained a small village until it became the capital in 1855, as a compromise between the rival cities of Leon (the Liberals) and Granada (the Conservatives). Located on the southern shore of Lago de Managua (aka Lake Xolotlán), it is crowded with more than a quarter of the population. Since it is on an open plain, it does not suffer the pollution problems typical of other capital cities.
We arrived in Managua at about 8:50pm (watch set ahead one hour again) and the temperature was in the 80s F. We headed for customs and immigration where we waited in another line. We ended up switching lines because our line was longer and slower. As we exited the airport, we started looking for Tonia, David's fiancée (the wedding being the reason for coming to Nicaragua). Tad spotted her because she looked like she was trying to find someone who she didn't know. She drove us to the Hotel Camino Real, which is where the wedding is being held, and made sure that we got checked in okay.
The room has two double beds, a television that gets several US stations in English, a couple of macaw poster pictures, a private bath with bottled water for brushing your teeth, and AC. The place appears to be a resort style with a pool, tennis courts, and some lawn areas. The buildings are single story and the hallways are open (doors into your room but not between buildings).
The Hotel Camino Real had wonderful tropical landscaping. |
There were several green areas between buildings. |
The pool was surrounded by palm tree tables and lounge chairs. |
Tonia will pick us up at 9am for breakfast and a tour of Managua.
We put some things in the hotel safe (plane tickets and cash) and wandered around the hotel while waiting for Tonia to pick us up. We found a cage with 3 red/yellow/blue macaws, 3 toucans, and green macaw. Tonia picked us up at 9am and took us to her father's house. Tonia's father is a lawyer and lived in Santa Clara for four years before returning to Nicaragua. That is why Tonia choose to go to Santa Clara to take English classes which is where she met David, Tad's cousin. She is also a lawyer but is not planning to do that when she moves the United States with David. (Her English is not good enough to be able to pass the bar in California and besides, David doesn't want her to be a lawyer.)
Tonia's father lives on a little cul-de-sac which neither Tad nor I would have any chance of ever finding again. The house appears small from the front but does extend back. There is porch on the front next to the parking area, both of which are behind a iron fence. Once inside, there was beautiful tile and wood work but it seemed sparsely furnished. There were windows between the bedrooms and the main room along the ceiling, which when opened would presumably allow air to blow through and circulate to keep the temperature down.
From her father's house we went to the restaurant, although her father drove separately as he was going to need to leave for a meeting. It was a lovely two story building and we sat on the balcony overlooking the street and an empty lot nearby. The cross breezes kept the temperature bearable and the bougainvilleas were gorgeous. Tad has a typical breakfast for Nicaragua which included eggs, rice and beans, and some fruit. The rice and beans are served with many meals in Nicaragua.
After breakfast, we stopped briefly at the house where Tonia's was having her wedding dress made to drop off her tiara. The tiara is a Spanish tradition and her father's side of the family is Spanish. Then Tonia took us on a tour of Managua.
Driving in Nicaragua is an experience. There aren't any street signs so you have to know where you are going. Seatbelts are not required and it is quite common to see people standing in the back of a pickup truck. Carts pulled by scrawny horses and old yellow school buses (used as the local buses) are common. You find vendors at almost every stop light selling juice drinks, papers, candy, or trying to wash your windows. Street lanes are not marked and cars make lanes as desired. The right side seems to stop more frequently since the local buses don't actually pull off to the side when stopping. However, break downs can happen in either lane in which case you have to just go around the stopped vehicle. Unlike the US where a horn is typically used only to warn about danger, horns are used frequently in Nicaragua apparently to say things like "move out of my way", "hey, I'm over here", "car coming" (when behind a bicycle, horse cart, or pedestrian), "move it", or "hello". The speed limit seems to be whatever you feel comfortable with and drivers pass each other frequently.
On a street in Managua looking toward Lake Managua. |
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Street vendors could be found on every corner. |
Coke and Pepsi signs battled for attention everywhere. |
Tonia took us a local "strip mall" which was depressingly like those found in the United States. There was a movie theatre and a couple of the stores were the same as those found in the states. Advertising is rampant and the Coke vs Pepsi war is going on strong in Nicaragua. You will see several coke signs on one street, turn a corner, and now you are surrounded by Pepsi signs. I've also seen McDonald's, Pizza Hut, Benetton, Texaco, Eskimo Ice Cream, Dominoes, TGI Fridays, and Purina Pro Chow.
Next, we went to the new Cathedral. It was built within the last six years and is a very modern style with lots of small Mosque like domes on top which contain skylights. The ceiling is extremely high and the walls are bare concrete with very square and straight lines. It does not have any of the typical ornate detail work or artistry that is common with the older cathedrals. There are large wooden doors on the sides and panels above which can be opened up to allow the breeze through. Considering the height of the ceiling, the multiple domes without supports, and the history of earthquakes in the area, we hope they got one heck of an architect to design it. Outside the church are lots of women and children hoping to get handouts or to sell you fruit juices, votive candles, or other items.
Tonia then took us to the old center of Managua where the town square is located. Nicaragua has been subject to several earthquakes such as the 1972 earthquake which killed over 10,000 people. As a result, the city of Managua has developed in bursts with neighborhoods being built on the outskirts while several areas of the old downtown have never been rebuilt and remain vacant. The old Cathedral, built in the more traditional style, is not open as a result of severe earthquake damage. In front of the old Cathedral is the old town square. In the center is a fountain which looks better at night when the water is going with a sound and light show. The President's house and the National Palace are also located around fountain. Nearby is a park with a statue of Ruben Dario, a local poet known as the 'Prince of Spanish-American literature, and Simon Bolivar, a very dedicated patriot who dreamed of a united Latin America.
Managua has suffered from multiple earthquakes and the center has not been rebuilt since the 1972 earthquake. There are several examples of colonial architecture located closely together in the old center. The Old Cathedral, which is in ruins, and the National Palace are located on the Central Park surrounding a fountain which has sound and light displays at night. Also located nearby is the modern Rubén Darío Theatre and a statue for Rubén Darío (1867-1916), a local poet known as the 'Prince of Spanish-American literature.
Cathedral Santiage de los Caballeros |
President's House |
Ruben Dario, poet |
National Palace |
After the old town center, Tanya took us the edge of Lago de Managua (Lake Managua) where we took a couple of pictures before heading back to the hotel and allowing Tonia to run other errands.
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Tonia picked David up at the airport and they picked us up at about 10pm to go out to dinner. David has flown from San Francisco to Houston and then transferred to the same Continental Flight 1974 which we had taken the day before. Apparently, David had fun making his connection in Houston. We went out to dinner at a Mexican restaurant called La Maria Bonita which opened in 1998. The food was good and they had live music. It was very packed and very loud.
Basically we spent the day hanging around the hotel waiting for David to come by. He had said that he come by and swim at the pool, but he didn't. Tad and I should have told him not to bother since we knew he was going to get tied up doing last minute wedding details. We were also supposed to go out to dinner with the Tonia's family, but again David never picked us up.
We spent most of the day hanging out by the pool and we ended up eating in the hotel at 9pm. Dinner at the hotel was extremely good and the waiter brought me a mushroom and gravy sauce for my meat since I didn't think I would like the first one. Tad did though.
